This is going to be a tad different than my previous articles. This is about a destination Ron and I have visited several times. Destinations intrigue me usually because of culture, traditions, history, curiosity, festivals, food, etc.
Many years ago, before our cruising days, Ron and I would grab a backpack, take limited items, and head for Europe – freelance. Sometimes we would be well planned and others we set up tentative itineraries. This of course isn’t for everyone. One Thanksgiving we were sitting around home thinking of New Year and decided, why not go to Amsterdam for New Year’s Eve, and that’s what we did. Fun, last minute, and exciting to think of it all[we were much younger than I must say]. Anxious to see the Red-Light District we had read about and to see what was so unique about Coffee Houses (ha)’ and see if there were actually many bicycles. It was ALL better than we had ever imagined. Lots of surprises for sure, like, out in the public urinals, the coffee house turned out to be like banks inside to purchase marijuana and roll marijuana cigarettes- seriously! The Red-Light District was easy to find, in Amsterdam. A surprise too, how they looked and how they worked. Ron took a picture of one where a guy was at the door ‘negotiating’ but the madame was apparently upset about it and ran after Ron to throw a drink at him. Hummm. That was many, many years ago! I gotta tell you…we learned a lot on that trip. Most importantly, be more discriminatory when taking pictures HA.
So, we are regularly asked, what is your favorite destination? That’s a hard one. Different cultures, different culinary experiences, different histories, in our travels we’ve come to appreciate almost all of them. I thought I would occasionally share some stories about some of them. Maybe entice the reader to visit one or some of them. I thought I’d start with Germany. We’ve traveled around that country by bus and train, not an organized tour. It is though, important to note, that traveling in a group, large or small, can save up to 40% due to group pricing advantages. What I mean is group or contracted air pricing, group hotel pricing, group meals in some cases, and entrances into everything at a group rate is going to save you money and time as they offer AHEAD OF THE LINE entrance advantages. The drawback is freedom. Some tours are more structured than others. (some people like that – everything about the planning is done ahead of time for you). Ron and I generally took the independent route so we could change our plans anytime we wanted, that was a tremendous value for our purposes. We generally purchase a Global Rail Ticket for one or more countries. Too many times we would come up to ‘something’ happening and could join in the fun without hesitation. This brings me to Germany.
It was February of the year we went and turned out something called ‘fasching’ was going on. Turned out it was like Carnival but in German style. We recognized something was happening in Cologne and learned it was also going on in Munich, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, and all over the country. Loud music, parades, celebrations all over the place. My research told me that Fasching is a pre-lent festivity celebrated in style. Predominately celebrated in Catholic regions. At the time we were totally unaware. Groups of people in costume, parading with dummies, wailing and singing, happy though with liquid refreshment, lots of snacks and food in the pubs. A joyous site.
The history is that Fasching starts on Nov. 11th at 11:11 a.m. and runs basically til around Feb. 11: 11:pm The biggest events I learned are actually held the week before Ash Wednesday. In Rhineland, pm Thursday the day begins with the women symbolically storming city hall and sniping off the ties of men and kissing any man who passes their way. Ron enjoyed the later HA. They then took markers and wrote on people’s faces, offering them food and drink and meandering between bars and other local venues. They were very friendly to me as well, though we were not in costume. Basically, the people are all living it up so to speak. The largest festival takes place on the Monday before Ash Wednesday. That must have been when we were there.
It was a very strange thing to watch for sure. Part of the festivities is the burial or burning of the Nubbel (a life-sized doll made of straw). It embodies all of the sins committed during the Carnival season. During the parades, there was actual wailing, and then the dummies, all of them, were burned in a pile with a ceremony on the Tuesday evening before Ash Wednesday. We were so lucky to watch and experience that festival.
How did it all begin? For Catholics, it actually provided a festive season with food and fun before the Lent or fasting pledge began. In pre-Christain days it symbolized driving out the winter and evil spirits. The wearing of masks would scare away the spirits.
Then there is the Oktoberfest which is actually celebrated at the end of September. Though celebrated all over the world, in Germany it is a festivity just outside of Munich. When we went it was really something. We took the German equivalent of the subway to the location. Crowded, yes. Fun, absolutely.
What was it really like? Originally it was started on Oktoberfest 12, 1810, as a marriage of the prince of Bavaria. The festival lasted 5 days and included horse racing. Well, as time changed things by 1818 there were booths with food and drink. It wasn’t until the 20th century that beer halls developed with bandstands, temporary buildings, and a capacity for 6K people. The major of Munich usually taps the 1st keg to open the festival. Today, the festival consumes more than 2 million gallons of beer. Breweries are all represented, and parades with people in costume are featured. Games, carnival-type rides, music, and dancing are estimated to draw more than 6 million people a year. When we went you purchased a glass, not just any glass, but a liter, and meandered to the various breweries and filled the ‘glass’ in all the merriment. Participants too will dress up in lederhosen ….it was a fun time, just be prepared for crowds, some very friendly people with maybe a tad too much liquid refreshment…all positive vibes. Various German communities will dress in themed clothes. A great number of those attending are tourists from the U.S.. who travel to Germany specifically for the festival. Many of them are in groups. Easy to get caught up in the festival, Ron bought a lederhosen outfit, and a mushroom hat and wore it around Germany. Tourists would take pictures of him HA.
This year 2023, Oktoberfest begins on Sept. 16th and runs until Oct. 3rd. It’s not too late to go HA. However, many U.S. cities with large German populations hold their own Oktoberfest modeling that of the one in Munich. There you will find German food and a Bavarian sense of community and fellowship. (I checked and below is a list of Oktoberfest events scheduled for Reno (according to the internet anyway). Check websites for more information.
Oktoberfest at The Brewer’s Cabinet Production Facility Sept. 30th
Prost Biergarten Oktoberfest Jeep Meet Sept. 30th 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm
Inaugural Edward Jones Oktoberfest Oct. 5th, FREE
Oktoberfest 2023 Oktoberfest Bundox Bocce 5:30 pm Oktoberfest 18th
The last festival I want to mention is one I have yet to attend, but do hope to one year soon. The Durkheim Sausage Market. Sounds good huh? Actually, it is more of a Wine festival than a sausage gathering.
This festival’s history goes back to the 12th Century. Local farmers and wine growers. A different kind of Oktoberfest, where the farmers and wine growers would sell their produce. They would march up to Michaelsberg, a nearby mountain. By the 1400’s the event began being called the Michaelsmarket. This grew into a 3-day event that eventually became the Wurstmrket in 1832 because of the great number of sausages sold during the fair. They say it has morphed into what it is today, an Oktoberfest-like affair with over 300 varieties of wine. Dry Rieslings to sweet ice wine served in a ½ liter. One article I found states the following: “Everything is there. Regional foodie specialties, tents, modern rides and cherished classics, bands, games, Riesenrad (Ferris Wheel) with spectacular views of the festival and surrounding vineyards”. Can’t wait to go. I want to see the Giant Wine Barrel, The Durkheimer Riesenfass, built from 200 northern Black Forest pine trees that used to store wine, and now is a restaurant open during the Durkheimer Wurstmarket weekend. Too late for this year since the festival was held on Sept. 8th-12th and 15th-18th. It is in a region that is considered Germany’s sunniest region. Bad Durkheim is a Spa Town in the heart of the Palatinate wine-producing region – a beautiful part of the German Wine road. Seriously, if anyone is interested in going to this next year, let me know. I am considering putting a group together to visit one of both festivals, the Munich Oktoberfest and the Durkheimer Wurstmarket. I do have a hankering for currywurst….German currywurst is the BEST.
Happy Travels.